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capradOffline
Post subject: Air Conditioning Installation  PostPosted: Aug 23, 2007 - 01:15 PM



Joined: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 8
Boat Summary: "Osage", Hull #204.
Status: Offline
Re: Cape Dory 28 FB Hull 204
Am planning to install an air conditioner during the off-season. I do not plan to install a generator--this would be AC only. This would be an internal system i.e. not a Cruisaire-through-the-hatch or RV rooftop AC. Requesting info as to manufacurer, model, size, features, and installation location. Also any special installation issues or problems that have been confronted would be helpful.
Much thanks.

Caprad "OSAGE"
 
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JoeBoaterOffline
Post subject: Cruisair self-contained unit installation  PostPosted: Aug 23, 2007 - 03:22 PM



Joined: Jul 21, 2006
Posts: 134
Boat Summary: "Mariner II", Hull #047. 1986 28 Flybridge. Shipwright Harbor, Deale, MD
Status: Offline
Prior owner of mine had a Cruisair 16,000 (w/ reverse cycle heat) installed under the port side bench. Ductwork is run through the bench, through the head (against the portside hull, beneath the portlight), through the hanging locker, to the v-berth. One louvered vent is in the main saloon area in the base of the bench seat. The other is in the v-berth, on the horizontal surface above the hanging locker. The return is also in the saloon, farther aft. Control panel is on the side of the helm, but could easily be placed elsewhere.

A very worthwhile addition, in my opinion.

In this picture, you can see the return (aft), and the vent (forward). The unit is right where the return is.


Here's the routing through the head. I plan to hang a curtain in front of it to dress it up. Later models had cabinetry here, I think.


And the small vent on the horizontal surface.
 
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capradOffline
Post subject: Air Conditioner Installation  PostPosted: Aug 24, 2007 - 01:22 AM



Joined: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 8
Boat Summary: "Osage", Hull #204.
Status: Offline
Joe
Thanks for that very helpful response
Caprad
 
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SEDNAOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 27, 2007 - 02:19 AM



Joined: Aug 09, 2006
Posts: 2
Boat Summary: "Sedna", Hull #216. 1990 CD 28 FlyBridge Cruiser Brick, NJ
Status: Offline
We found the supply fits into the corner between the aft window and the port window ( a teak vent was installed - like it was there all the time) - the a/c was placed under the seat closest to the head, the return is also there. We also ran a vent into the head (located in the hanging locker) and the vent on top of the hanging locker (also ran throught the hanging locker) our control panel is in the v-berth on the hanging locker opposite the light in the v-berth. Works great.
 
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shawn.geraghtyOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 20, 2011 - 05:35 PM



Joined: Jun 13, 2008
Posts: 31
Boat Summary: Soft Shell, Annapolis MD, 1985 Cruiser, Hull 006
Status: Offline
With July and August upon us here on the Chesapeake Bay, we are looking into installing A/C on Soft Shell (formerly Tilly), hull 006. Any other info on brands/manufacturers, unit sizes, installation (DIY or professional) would be greatly appreciated.

Would love to hear from someone who had a unit installed. The CDs of owners that I now had theirs already installed.

Thanks.
 
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larryfellOffline
Post subject: AC instrallation  PostPosted: Jul 21, 2011 - 02:19 PM



Joined: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 102
Boat Summary: "White Sand", Hull #167. Panama City, Fl, 1989FB
Status: Offline
My 12000BTU Webesto unit keeps us very comfortable in Florida. The discharge fan is on the back of the unit and faces forward. My installation is unusual. Like other owners, I chose the underberth corner next to the head. For quick access, the intake valve and strainer are
located in the keel box below the floor hatch located between the head and sink.
The intake seacock is port and forward of the strainer (which is starboard and located in the middle of the opening). Epoxy/5200 a V shaped fairing block, so contoured to the hull as to position the strainer vertically.
Moving aft, the electric water pump is positioned inside & below the port engine stringer. Next in stall a thru hull for your discharge line. Mine is close to the port sink drain. BTW all of my 1989 plastic thru hulls were rotted and replaced. Speaking of the sink drain, I spliced the condensation line into my sink's drain just below the sink. Next you must cut two plywood panels to seal off the A/C compartment from the engine spaces. Next cut in an intake grill below the seat to provide air to the unit.
Now comes the unusual part. I mounted a 4 inch PVC pipe in the corner formed by the shower bulkhead and seat back. The pipe passes thru a new plywood seat slat and connects to the outlet fan with a 90 degree PVC fitting and 4 inch ducking. The sette seat must be shorten 6 inches to allow for the pipe and a short 6 x10 ? filler block made. A second 90 degree fitting attaches to the top of the two foot PVC pipe. The pipe itself has an insulated sleeve made of the same material as the seats. To cool the entire boat, I rotate the head of the pipe toward the pilot's windshield which deflects the air down below. To quickley cool the cabin, I aim the elbow toward the cabin door. It all sounds goofy, but but it works and minimises ducking. Hopes this generates some ideas. Larry
PS My Honda 2000 generator will run this unit.
 
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tomlatOffline
Post subject: Cruisat 16,000 BTU  PostPosted: Jul 21, 2011 - 09:39 PM



Joined: Aug 04, 2010
Posts: 16
Boat Summary: Name: Carolina Blue Port: Callawassie Island, SC Year: 1989 Hull #: 179
Status: Offline
I have a Cruisair 16,000 BTU installed in Carolina Blue Hull 179 and it's perfect when on shore power. Dose anyone knwo what watt generator will power this thing at startup?
tom
 
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JoeBoaterOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 22, 2011 - 05:25 PM



Joined: Jul 21, 2006
Posts: 134
Boat Summary: "Mariner II", Hull #047. 1986 28 Flybridge. Shipwright Harbor, Deale, MD
Status: Offline
I have a Crusair 16,000 as well. A Honda 2000 was not able to get it started.
 
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kg4mdxOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 22, 2011 - 10:18 PM



Joined: Jan 29, 2008
Posts: 78
Boat Summary: "Walkabout", Hull # 153. Red hull, name in white letters on the side, fly bridge removed.
Status: Offline
The 115 volt Dometec (Cruiseair, etc.) 16,000 BTU AC/Heat units operating at full load draw 9.3 amps when cooling and 12.4 when heating. The specs call for a minimum circuit capacity of 23 amps, so the transient starting load is probably near 20 amps. A 2.5 kw generator should start it and, once it was running, power the whole boat.
Bill
 
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djmarchandOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 23, 2011 - 06:16 PM



Joined: Oct 15, 2010
Posts: 31

Status: Offline
I believe I have a 12,000 BTU Cruisair in my boat. It draws 11 amps while running. Beware of reading Dometic's specs. They do not include the raw water pump which draws 2-3 amps.

So with the system shut down and allowed to rest (to let the pressure equalize) I set my clamp on DC/AC ammeter to maximum hold and started the A/C. It drew 38 amps max while starting. MY cruisair has the SMXII contoller which starts the fan first and waits a second to start the compressor.

Not too suprpising as I have always read that starting inrush current is 3 times or more running current.

Then I borrowed a friend's Honda EU 2000 and turned Eco off and tried to start it. No go. 38 amps is just too much for the little Honda.

This is an old A/C unit and newer ones may have lower starting current. And there are devices you can add to reduce starting amps.

YMMV of course.

David
 
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tomlatOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 24, 2011 - 11:24 PM



Joined: Aug 04, 2010
Posts: 16
Boat Summary: Name: Carolina Blue Port: Callawassie Island, SC Year: 1989 Hull #: 179
Status: Offline
OK, the reason I asked the question above is, I purchased a Magna 3000 generator that was rated as continous 2600 watts and 3000 watts surge. According to the math it should have worked, but the generator would not survive the start up. I sold the generator on Amazon, but I'm really looking for a unit to power my 16,000 BTU a/c. Man it's hot in SC. I need to run my a/c when on the hook.
 
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djmarchandOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 25, 2011 - 02:52 PM



Joined: Oct 15, 2010
Posts: 31

Status: Offline
You can buy a Soft Start kit from Dometic that will dramatically reduce your starting amps. I suspect a Honda EU2000 will start your A/C with one of these installed. Google Dometic Soft Start and look at the posts on The Hull Truth, Cruisers Forum and other sites from Dometic's engineer. He reports reducing starting current by half.
 
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tomlatOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 26, 2011 - 06:18 PM



Joined: Aug 04, 2010
Posts: 16
Boat Summary: Name: Carolina Blue Port: Callawassie Island, SC Year: 1989 Hull #: 179
Status: Offline
Thanks I'll try it.
Tomlat
 
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calusaOffline
Post subject: Airconditioning  PostPosted: Sep 22, 2013 - 12:25 PM



Joined: Sep 29, 2006
Posts: 27
Boat Summary: "The Calusa:, Hull #057. Repowered w/ 315 Yanmar - by Niemiec Marine, New Bedford, MA and the owner
Status: Offline
Larry Fell

My computation puts the cubic feet of the cabin, galley area and v-berth at just under 800 cubic -
Solon 7X9X6.5 = 409
Galley area 7X4X6 = 168
V-Berth area 5X6.5X6 = 195
772

My air-conditioner guy says for tropics 10 BTU per CU ft - would give me just under 8000 required BTUs.

I plan on putting the air-conditioner in the same location - under the v-berth but on the starboard side just ahead of the galley.

My question is at 12000 BTU - just a little more than you need?


Don Shephard
dlshephds@aol.com
 
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calusaOffline
Post subject: Re: AC instrallation  PostPosted: Sep 22, 2013 - 12:27 PM



Joined: Sep 29, 2006
Posts: 27
Boat Summary: "The Calusa:, Hull #057. Repowered w/ 315 Yanmar - by Niemiec Marine, New Bedford, MA and the owner
Status: Offline
larryfell wrote:
My 12000BTU Webesto unit keeps us very comfortable in Florida. The discharge fan is on the back of the unit and faces forward. My installation is unusual. Like other owners, I chose the underberth corner next to the head. For quick access, the intake valve and strainer are
located in the keel box below the floor hatch located between the head and sink.
The intake seacock is port and forward of the strainer (which is starboard and located in the middle of the opening). Epoxy/5200 a V shaped fairing block, so contoured to the hull as to position the strainer vertically.
Moving aft, the electric water pump is positioned inside & below the port engine stringer. Next in stall a thru hull for your discharge line. Mine is close to the port sink drain. BTW all of my 1989 plastic thru hulls were rotted and replaced. Speaking of the sink drain, I spliced the condensation line into my sink's drain just below the sink. Next you must cut two plywood panels to seal off the A/C compartment from the engine spaces. Next cut in an intake grill below the seat to provide air to the unit.
Now comes the unusual part. I mounted a 4 inch PVC pipe in the corner formed by the shower bulkhead and seat back. The pipe passes thru a new plywood seat slat and connects to the outlet fan with a 90 degree PVC fitting and 4 inch ducking. The sette seat must be shorten 6 inches to allow for the pipe and a short 6 x10 ? filler block made. A second 90 degree fitting attaches to the top of the two foot PVC pipe. The pipe itself has an insulated sleeve made of the same material as the seats. To cool the entire boat, I rotate the head of the pipe toward the pilot's windshield which deflects the air down below. To quickley cool the cabin, I aim the elbow toward the cabin door. It all sounds goofy, but but it works and minimises ducking. Hopes this generates some ideas. Larry
PS My Honda 2000 generator will run this unit.
 
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