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dorydazeOffline
Post subject: Refigerator  PostPosted: Jul 15, 2008 - 10:36 AM



Joined: Aug 22, 2006
Posts: 51
Boat Summary: "Dory Daze", Hull #040.
Status: Offline
Hi, has anyone replaced their refrigerator? If so what make and model did you purchase? Did you have to make any modifiactions to install and were there any porblems taking the old one out? I have to replace a Norcold 251E and of course they no longer make this model.

Thanks
Phil
Dorydaze Hull 40 (1986)
 
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ekroekerOffline
Post subject: Replacing the Norcold DE-490  PostPosted: Jul 15, 2008 - 03:08 PM
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Joined: Jul 12, 2006
Posts: 58
Boat Summary: "Sea Queue:, Hull #190. Fall River MA, 1989 CD28 cruiser.
Status: Offline
I replaced my fridge last year. I ended up putting a Norcold DE-490 (same model as my original) back in after much research. I don't know if the 1986 Norcold 215 is the same dimensions or not; it seems likely, though.

Sea Queue, #190, 1989.

The current DE-490 is slightly different in size than the original, but would fit. The old had the compressor in a cutout that took interior space. The new has the compressor on the back, with that "cutout" into the interior now gone. The new has fewer coils, but has a 12v fan to compensate for fewer coils. The overall size was slightly different, but would fit (I didn't know or catch on to that difference until I had the new unit). I chose to modify the fridge to allow an additional 12V fan to ventilate the fridge compartment from the under-sink area (cut an additional 4" round hole or so in the bulkhead between the sink and fridge, mounted a fan, wired this into the fan on the fridge, but added a switch and LED indicator up on the rear of the console (e.g. on electrical breaker panel area) so I could turn the additional fan into the circuit or off...it ended up making enough extra noise to bother me at night, so I turn it off at night.

The new has a different arrangement on the door (I preferred the original). That change happened at Norcold 10 years ago or more (I have a friend with the same Norcold but newer than my 18 year old CD28 that has that door arrangement).

The key physical mounting issue is the faceplate of the area behind the counter/sink (on my CD28, this has sliding tinted polycarbonate doors into that storage area). That wood face piece protrudes down into the fridge area, presumably providing strength to that overall cabinetry (which was assembled separately I think, and dropped into the hull and so needed to stay together when not yet attached to the hull, bulkheads, and flooring). This "ridge" or downward protruding wood plate will drive dimensions. If your fridge is kaput, you have little risk in just removing it now to measure. I looked at a number of fridges (especially those with newer insulation or other technology), but found none that would fit (some would require a slightly larger rough opening) or had a freezer compartment (I deemed the freezer compartment essential to my use; if you can get by with just refrigeration it would be different in terms of what else you might be able to mount)...so I ended up with the same model, presumably with some improvement in the compressor. One benefit is that exactly the same mounting rails are used (the loop in the back on each rail to hold the unit down, allowing only 2 big screws in the front to secure the fridge in place. Removing the old only requires removing the screws, and pulling it out carefully. Note that the AC and DC cables may be tie-wrapped to the coils, and will require some attention JUST before the whole refrigerator comes out of the compartment (start by unplugging the fridge underneath the sink, and making sure the AC cord is then entirely inside the fridge compartment). If your fridge is kaput, damage during removal may not be an issue. It's the coils that will suffer if the wiring is attached and interferes with removal without attention.

If measuring the cavity, note that the curvature of the hull constrains the lower portion of that cavity (e.g. the depth of the fridge at the bottom is likely to be limiting).

I did take some pictures, but they were lost (well, marred with bad data) due to a software bug in my then digital camera.

Oh, now I remember another physical dimension issue: the location of the box that holds the AC outlet for the fridge is another key issue in that interior space. I had to remove the service loop for that box (just untiewrap the romex-like marine AC cable), and remount the cable in a different place to make sure there was room for the new fridge. I didn't have to move the box, only modify where the wiring was attached. It was attached near the BOTTOM of that protruding wood piece mentioned earlier; I moved the mountable cable ties to the FACE of that piece, which gave 3/4 of inch of clearance that the new fridge needed and the old fridge didn't. I'd bet that the wiring placement and the box location vary a lot over the CD28 production run.

I hope this helps a bit.
 
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dorydazeOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 17, 2008 - 09:54 AM



Joined: Aug 22, 2006
Posts: 51
Boat Summary: "Dory Daze", Hull #040.
Status: Offline
Thank's for the info.

Phil
 
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