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bamartin06Offline
Post subject: Fresh water tank Access  PostPosted: Jun 03, 2012 - 11:52 PM



Joined: Aug 26, 2010
Posts: 60
Boat Summary: "Sea Otter" Hull #131, Wakefield, RI, 1987 Flybridge Cruiser
Status: Offline
OK... I have another question... I need to get to the port side fresh water tank. Sea Otter has a TAMD 41A engine. This engine takes up most of the room in the engine compartment. The engine compartment is separated from the fresh water and fuel tanks along the port and starboard side of the compartment by plywood and noise dampening insulation. The engine compartment fire extinguisher, lines, electrical wires, filters.... are attached to this separating plywood wall. I had always assumed if I cleaned out the salon bench seat there would be access through the floor boards. Nope!

The floor is only 1/2" plywood. Can I set my circular saw to 1/2" and cut an access port thru the floor under the bench seat without hitting anything? I can then screw down another piece of plywood a good 2" larger in all dimensions to the floor for a new access.

How do others access the port side tanks?
 
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kg4mdxOffline
Post subject: RE: Fresh water tank Access  PostPosted: Jun 05, 2012 - 05:54 PM



Joined: Jan 29, 2008
Posts: 78
Boat Summary: "Walkabout", Hull # 153. Red hull, name in white letters on the side, fly bridge removed.
Status: Offline
The beams under the floor are either 2x3 or 2x4. The screw lines will show you the spacing. Drill some corner holes, just through the plywood, and then use a short jig saw blade or a cut-off saber saw blade (unless you are lucky enough to have a Fine cutting tool) to cut a rectangular access hole. You can cut a rectangle of plywood as a lid, the floor will be a 1/2" uneven, but you'll have access. Also, there should be a 4" wide removable board right in from the hull as well as a larger removable panal that gives access to the top of the fuel tank--while your down there check for corrosion on the back of the aluminum fuel tank, the side next to the hull, down low next to the plywood. That is where Walkabout's fuel tank failed.
 
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bamartin06Offline
Post subject: RE: Fresh water tank Access  PostPosted: Jun 05, 2012 - 08:34 PM



Joined: Aug 26, 2010
Posts: 60
Boat Summary: "Sea Otter" Hull #131, Wakefield, RI, 1987 Flybridge Cruiser
Status: Offline
Thanks Bill...

Bruce
 
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vibound2000Offline
Post subject: RE: Fresh water tank Access  PostPosted: Aug 12, 2012 - 06:27 PM



Joined: Jul 23, 2012
Posts: 63

Status: Offline
OK ~ Now for the water tank (and fuel tank) on the starboard side. What is the trick to getting them out? The water tank does have a leak and the fuel tank is empty and I am worried about what might happen when I try to fill it with fuel.

_________________
Emotional Rescue
1990 Cape Dory 28 FB
200 hp Volvo
St Thomas, VI
 
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kg4mdxOffline
Post subject: RE: Fresh water tank Access  PostPosted: Aug 12, 2012 - 10:48 PM



Joined: Jan 29, 2008
Posts: 78
Boat Summary: "Walkabout", Hull # 153. Red hull, name in white letters on the side, fly bridge removed.
Status: Offline
Two ways to get them out. First and easiest, take the engine out. With the engine out of the boat remove the wood cleats at the base of both tanks. Undo all hose connections on both tanks, remove the fuel pick-up and re-turn fittings on the fuel tank. Then remove the two wood braces that hold the water tank down; their screwed to a deck beam over the water tank and you can reach them. The water tank will slide out. Cut the steel straps holding the fuel tank in place, remove the wood cleat at the forward base of the fuel tank and slide the tank forward so that it clears the exhaust hose. Now slide the tank part way out, the welded aluminum fuel fill and air vent fittings on the tank will hit a deck beam, either cut them off (skill saw) or notch the deck beam. Slide the tank the rest of the way out. The alternative way to remove the tanks is to cut the deck and deck beams out from over the tanks, and rebuild it after the new tanks are in--not a good idea. When ordering new fuel tanks specify that all tank fittings should screw in. If the fill and air vent fittings are welded (usual) you will have to notch a deck beam to install the new tank. If the new tanks are aluminum, after the tank is in place slide a half dozen one inch wide by a quarter inch thick high density neoprene strips under the tank, inboard to out, to raise the tank a bit so water can drain and air circulate. When the tanks are out, you may find that the plywood tank bed is rotten. Hope this helps. Its a good job for the winter. This assums that you have a Volvo TAMD with two fuel and two water tanks, one of each on each side.
 
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